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Łukasz Muller (CW Transformator) and Rafał Porębski (CW Transformator) repeated Via Italia 8a - a multipitch route at Piz Ciavazes (the Dolomites).
Via Italia used to be a 250m aid route, first climbed in 1961. Yet, in 2004 it was freed by Mauro Bubu Bole.
"Via Italia" 8a
For Rafał it was the first attempt at the route, and Łukasz had already tried the line last year. The route was led after one day of practising the pitches.
Rafał on a "Via Italia", pitch 7c+
(photo Wojtek Jędrzejczyk)
Łukasz on a "Via Italia", pitch 8a
(photo Wojtek Jędrzejczyk)
According to Rafał, the team slightly alternated locations of the belay stands on the route:
"We decided to split the 7c+ pitch into two shorted pitches, mainly because of a terrible rope drag. In our opinion, leading this pitch in one push is totally pointless (unless you use one-meter-long runners). Moreover, after you get through a 7b corner, you arrive at a comfortable (no hand) ledge with the 7c+ crux still waiting ahead of you - so there is no difference in the difficulty. We also moved the next belay higher - to the base of the roof. It doesn't really change the grade, but it significantly increases the safety. Originally, the stand used to be lower - exactly below the roof, which made a great difference because, while Łukasz was leading the pitch, several loose stones fell off. Only a two-meter-wide strip of the roof was thoroughly cleared, the rest of it is loose and unstable."
The trip was supported by gear from HiMountain and Lhotse.
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