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 A Polish expedition Sage Symfonia Polish Karakorum EXPEDITION, Pakistan 2006 operated in the region of the Trango Towers, Karakorum/Pakistan, at the turn of August and September. The climbing team included: Maciej Ciesielski, Jakub Radziejowski, Wawrzyniec Zakrzewski.
The expedition initially planned to climb the Trango Nameless Tower (6239 m) and also to open a new route on one of the neighbouring towers.
Unfortunately, at first, the weather was very bad. Only after a couple of days (31/08), the team, taking advantage of an afternoon sunny spell, managed to open a new warm-up route at a nearby crag above the base camp - Oceano Trango (6a, OS, 300m).
"PIA" on the Garden Peak (photo Jakub Radziejowski)
On 5th September, the improving weather enabled the team to open another new route at a (probably) unclimbed peak to the left of the Garda Peak. PIA, which can be read as an abbreviation for "Pakistan Insallah Airlines" or "Please Inform Allah" is 540 meters long, the grade is VIII- 1xA0, and it was climbed onsight. The A0 section consisted of a pendulum from a crack stuffed with mud to a neighbouring crack to the left. The virgin summit was baptised the Garden Peak.
On 13th September, Maciej Ciesielski and Jakub Radziejowski attempted to climb the Trango Nameless Tower via the Eternal Flame route. After 19 pitches, they set up a bivy. Unfortunately, on the next day, the weather deteriorated and they were forced to abseil.
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Sadu Peak:
- "Pretty Close" (VII, 430m, 2006)
- "Love, Love" (VII, 350m, 2004)
- "Sadu" (VII, 350m)
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photo Jakub Radziejowski |
To cheer up, on 17th September, all three climber opened a new route solving the middle of the south-west face of the Sadu Peak - Pretty close (VII, OS, 430m).
"Let's go home" (photo Jakub Radziejowski)
A day later, as a farewell to Karakorum, the team climbed a new variation to the Severence Ridge - a route opened in the previous year by a New Zealand-Canadian-American team. The Polish variation climbs along a ridge of the Trango Ri summit - it leads through at least five independent middle peaks. The team finished its climb below the first summit (about 670 meters), without climbing to the very top of Trango Ri. The Polish variation solves at least 200 meters of a new terrain, including a VIII+ pitch (AF) and a VIII pitch (OS). The next three pitches, before the route joins the Severence Ridge, offer difficulties between VII and VII+. After the variant joins the original route, the difficulties do not exceed VI+, with a single A0 point. The variation was called Let's go home.
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